Walls that hold the hill and look the part.
From a low seat wall around the patio to a tiered hillside system holding back tons of soil, we engineer for the long game — proper drainage, geo-grid where needed, and stonework that ages beautifully.
A retaining wall is half engineering, half craft. We sweat the things you'll never see — drain rock, weep holes, geo-grid, compaction — so the part you do see stays straight and true for decades.
- Engineered for slope and load
- Natural stone, block, and poured
- Drainage and weep system built in
- Geo-grid reinforcement when needed
- Tiered hillside systems
- Seat walls, planters, and steps
The boring stuff is the important stuff.
Most failed walls in the East Bay failed for one reason: drainage. We over-build the drainage system on every wall — full drain rock, perforated pipe, filter fabric — so water moves and the wall stays put.
- Compacted gravel base
- Perforated drain to daylight
- Filter fabric to prevent silting
- Integrated lighting available
Wall systems we build
We design and install segmental concrete block walls (Allan Block, Belgard, Keystone), poured-in-place reinforced concrete walls with stone or stucco veneer, natural boulder and stacked-stone walls, and full structural walls with engineered drainage and geogrid reinforcement. The right system depends on wall height, slope behind, soil type, and how the wall reads from the house — all things we evaluate during the site visit.
- Segmental block — modular, fast, design-flexible
- Poured concrete with stone or stucco veneer
- Natural boulder & stacked-stone walls
- Engineered geogrid-reinforced walls over 4 feet
- Curved, terraced, and seat-wall configurations
Why East Bay walls fail (and how we prevent it)
Across Walnut Creek, Lafayette, Orinda, and Moraga we see the same three failure modes: no drainage behind the wall, undersized footing, and no geogrid on tall walls. Saturated expansive clay pushing on a wall with nowhere for water to go is what causes the bulging, leaning, and toppling we get called to replace. We over-spec drainage on every wall and follow CSLB-licensed engineering for walls over 4 feet.
- Full-height drain rock chimney behind the wall
- Perforated pipe daylighting downhill or to storm drain
- Filter fabric separating soil from drain rock
- Engineered footing sized to soil bearing capacity
- Geogrid layers tied into the hillside on tall walls
Built-in lighting, seating & planters
A retaining wall doesn't have to be just a wall. We integrate low-voltage LED cap lighting, recessed step lights, built-in bench seating with cushions, and planter pockets for cascading rosemary, lavender, or trailing succulents — turning a structural necessity into the centerpiece of the yard.
- Low-voltage LED cap & accent lighting
- Built-in seat walls with smooth caps
- Integrated planters and tree wells
- Continuous curves and stepped terraces
Permits, engineering & code compliance
Walls under 4 feet (measured from bottom of footing to top of wall) generally don't require a permit in Contra Costa County jurisdictions, but anything taller, anything supporting a surcharge like a driveway, or anything in a setback usually does. We handle the engineering, permit application, and inspections so you don't have to navigate it.
- Permit pulled when required by the city
- Stamped engineering for walls over 4 feet
- Soil bearing and surcharge calculations
- Inspections coordinated with the building department
Engineered for the long haul.
- 01
Site evaluation
We measure the slope, evaluate soil and drainage, identify property lines and setbacks, and discuss how you want the finished space to function — sitting area, garden terrace, level lawn, or driveway widening.
- 02
Design & engineering
For walls over 4 feet or supporting a surcharge, we engage a licensed engineer for stamped plans. You'll see elevations, materials, and a written scope before anything is excavated.
- 03
Excavation & footing
We over-excavate behind the wall location, compact the footing trench, and place a compacted gravel base or poured concrete footing sized to the wall height and soil.
- 04
Wall construction
Block walls are set course-by-course with geogrid layers tied into compacted backfill. Poured walls are formed, rebar-tied, and poured per spec. Boulder walls are placed with the heaviest stones at the base.
- 05
Drainage & backfill
We install perforated drain pipe in a full chimney of clean drain rock wrapped in filter fabric, daylight the pipe downhill, then backfill in compacted lifts with the right material for the wall type.
- 06
Cap, finish & cleanup
Caps are adhered with construction adhesive, lighting wired, and the area regraded. We haul off all spoils and walk the finished wall with you.
The East Bay's expansive clay soils and steep hillside lots in Lafayette, Orinda, Moraga, Walnut Creek, and Alamo are unforgiving — which is exactly why every wall we build is over-drained, properly footed, and engineered when it needs to be.
Retaining walls, answered.
Real answers to what Contra Costa County homeowners ask us most.
Do I need a permit for a retaining wall in Contra Costa County?+
In most Contra Costa jurisdictions (Walnut Creek, Lafayette, Orinda, Danville), retaining walls over 4 feet measured from the bottom of the footing — or any wall supporting a surcharge like a driveway — require a building permit and engineered drawings. We handle the engineering and permit submittal.
How much does a retaining wall cost per linear foot?+
Block walls typically run $45–$90 per face foot, segmental block with geo-grid $90–$150, and stone veneer or poured-in-place from $150+. Hillside walls in Lafayette and Orinda often need engineering, drainage, and reinforcement that drive the per-foot cost above flat-yard walls.
Why do retaining walls fail, and how do you prevent it?+
The number-one cause of failed walls in the East Bay is bad drainage — hydrostatic pressure builds up behind the wall during winter rain and pushes it forward. Every wall we build gets a full drain rock backfill, filter fabric, and a perforated drain that daylights to the storm system.
What materials work best for East Bay hillside walls?+
Segmental concrete block (SRW) systems with geo-grid reinforcement are the workhorse for taller residential walls — they flex slightly with soil movement and drain well. Natural stone veneer over a reinforced CMU or poured core is the upgrade when you want a timeless look.
How long does a retaining wall take to build?+
A short seat wall takes 2–4 days. A 60-foot, 4-foot-tall segmental wall with drainage typically runs 1–2 weeks. Engineered hillside systems with tiering and geo-grid can take 3–6 weeks depending on access and permit timing.
Can you tier multiple shorter walls instead of one tall one?+
Often yes — and it usually looks better and may avoid engineering thresholds. Tiered walls also let us add planters, lighting, and steps between levels. We'll evaluate slope, soil, and setbacks during the site visit.
"Ken and A-K Landscaping just completed a large complete tear-out and rebuild of our entire back yard — stone retaining wall, planter boxes, lighting, re-routing drains, reworking sprinklers, and more. The project turned out absolutely beautiful."
Let's plan your project.
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